Mole Patrol
By Pamm Cooper, Turf Program Coordinator, UConn Cooperative Extension
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Harpoon-style mole trap |
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Star-nose mole |
As the snow melts, whether from late winter thaws or the arrival of spring, many folks may notice a preponderance of mole runs that have been made obvious by freeze-thaw cycles. Water from winter rains cannot drain properly in frozen or partially frozen soil with the result being that the soil covering the tunnels is heaved up as the water expands upon freezing.
Moles are small burrowing mammals that live almost exclusively underground. They are 6 to 8 inches in length, with extremely soft gray to brown fur. Of the six species that are found in North America, only two are usually common lawn dwellers in Connecticut. These are the Eastern mole (Scalopus aquaticus) and the star-nosed mole (Condylura cristata). The Eastern mole is gray and has a nearly hairless short tail. The star-nosed mole has a long, very hairy tail and has 22-fingerlike appendages surrounding its nostrils.
Moles feed mostly on earthworms, but they also will eat subsurface dwelling insects such as beetle larva, or grubs. However, the presence of moles in a yard does not necessarily indicate that grubs are present. To find out if this might be the case, check the areas where moles are actively tunneling to see if any grubs are present. The higher the number of grubs, the more tunnels may be seen as the moles search for them. But keep in mind that moles are also found at the fringes of hardwood forested areas feeding on earthworms. Soils in these areas may have many earthworms because of the high organic matter content due to the breakdown of fallen leaves. Often times homes are built in the mole's native habitat - their backyards, so to speak. Recognition of this fact may persuade some to be more tolerant of mole activities.
Moles may actually reduce the number of underground insect pests of lawns, but in doing so wreak havoc by their tunneling operations. Lawns must be tamped down continually to avoid roots drying out, as roots hanging in mole tunnels have no soil contact. Or lawns may be scalped when the pushed-up grass is mowed, or as mower tires sink in the tunnels. If mole damage is great enough, homeowners need to take action.
There are few effective ways to control moles. One is to physically removing them. Another is by using a trap. Poisoned baits can be used but keep in mind that pet cats and wild animals like hawks and owls may feed on these poisoned moles and become ill or die. There are numerous products being sold and purported to control moles, but their effectiveness may be highly inconsistent. Personally, I have found that physical control and traps work best.
To physically remove a mole from a tunnel, you must see the ground being pushed up, usually at the end of the tunnel as the mole is moving toward food. You can insert a spade about a foot behind the area being pushed up and immediately dig up the surface of the tunnel until you find the mole. It can be picked up by the tail and disposed of as the captor sees fit. Keep in mind moles will bite. If dropped, they will try to dig into the ground at once. They can't really see well, but know they must get away by any means. If hand removal is uncomfortable, one can kill the mole in the tunnel by repeated quick stabs of the spade into the ground closer to the end of the moving tunnel.
A harpoon trap can work well if used properly. Find the main travel tunnel by tamping down all mounds, and see where the mole comes back. Usually all feeding tunnels come off the main tunnel. After determining this, the trap must be set so the supports straddle the tunnel and the harpoon prongs point directly over the main tunnel. If the supports block the tunnel, the mole will go around and avoid the deadly prongs. It helps if the prongs are worked in and out of the tunnel before setting the spring. This ensures that the mole will be hit quickly as the trap is sprung. When the trap is sprung, dig up the spot to make sure the mole is dead. If, not, retamp the tunnel lightly and reset.
The most effective baits are sold as gummy worm-like strips that contain the poison bromethalin. These are inserted also into a long straight-run main tunnel. The key is not to leave your scent on them. A sharp stick can be used to open a hole into the tunnel into which the worm is dropped. Make sure the worm is not dropped too deep, so as to be beneath the main runway.
I prefer to relocate any moles I catch. Typically, I drop them deep into the woods (not in a neighbor's lawn!), and rarely see them active in my lawn again. But you are free to do whatever you think best with the ones you catch. It is just an unfortunate thing for the moles, who are blissfully unaware that they are a nuisance to anyone. If you have questions about moles or other backyard wildlife species, feel free to call the UConn Home & Garden Education Center, toll-free, at (877) 486-6271, visit our website, www.ladybug.uconn.edu or contact your local Cooperative Extension office.
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